This series of photos documents how I modified a 7" Lilliput LCD panel to work in the pico projector. The lilliput I chose is a 2400x480 dot (800x480 pixel) resolution LCD panel with VGA and component video inputs as well as remote control operation. This is an extremely good LCD panel to use in the pico because it offers higher resolution than most small panels, is natively widescreen, and has relatively high contrast.

Currently, this page doesn't yet contain all of the photos of how to actually install this LCD module into your pico, but it is enough for you to modify your LCD panel to a point where you have a translucent LCD module with no cables in the way of your projection. Because this page is so graphic intensive, please allow about 2 minutes for load time if you are on a 56k modem. It may be beneficial for dial-up users to stop loading this page and then right-click on each image holder and select "show image" to download each image 1 at a time. Please contact me if you are having difficulties with this page.

Before starting, please make sure that your LCD panel is not connected to power sources or other video equipment via any cables. Also, you should attempt to discharge any static build-up on your body by touching a grounded piece of metallic equipment (I have a metal desk lamp that I touch before working with static-sensitive devices like my laptop computer or LCD panels).

Step 1 - Here is the LCD panel with its rear facing us. Use a small cross head screwdriver to unscrew the 4 screws holding on the rear cover of the LCD panel (1 screw per corner).

Step 2 - Using a knife or sharp screwdriver/scraper, break any warrantee stickers that are keeping you from entering the LCD panel. Then carefully use a flat head screwdriver to pry open the case as I have done below. Take caution not to accidentally poke the screwdriver through the enclosure and into the LCD panel - you could permanently damage the LCD or circuitry!

Step 3 - Pull the cover off of the LCD panel. You can see here that there are 3 sets of cables that you need to disconnect before you can fully remove this cover. The backlight connection (2 black wires) pulls straight out with a little finessing. The first ribbon cable with the black connector (the color of your connector may vary) should be removed by using a blade or small flat head screwdriver to carefully lift the black plastic flap. Insert your tool of choice under this clip from the same side as the ribbon cable is entering it, then gently lift the tool. 

The last ribbon cable disconnects easily by using your fingers to lift up on the cream colored connector on the LCD-side of the assembly show below. After you have pulled the connector up to unlock it, the ribbon cable should slide out easily with no force.

Step 4 - Here are the two parts of the LCD panel after undoing the cables as described in the previous step. The next thing to do is to unscrew the 4 screws that are keeping the LCD module in its plastic frame. These screws are located at the edges of the LCD module and are attached to small metal clips.

Here is the LCD removed from the frame as described above.

Step 5 - Now let's remove the backlight/polarizer/diffuser assembly from the LCD module. The backlight module is this white plastic and foil package that is attached to the backside of the LCD panel. You need to first remove the black sticker that is in the lower right corner of the below photo (it covers a small circuit card).

You will see that there are 3 small screws holding in the circuit card. You should try to remove these using a small crosshead screwdriver, but I found that even with significant force I could not loosen them. My solution is to use a drill with a small and sharp bit to slowly drill off the screw heads. Take care not to drill into the green circuit card since you could crack it. You do not need to drill out the screws entirely - just enough to remove the heads. Be careful not to move the circuit card too far out of the way - it is connected directly to the LCD panel and this ribbon cable is particularly fragile. Later we will mount it elsewhere so that it cannot be flexed too far.

Step 6 - Next you need to raise the metal clip that is pinching the backlight assembly. Also, there are about 12 small metal tabs around the edge of the backlight assembly that need to be bent using a flat head screwdriver so that you can release the backlight assembly.

Step 7 - Now you should be able to lift out the backlight assembly. When you do this, make sure not to bend the circuit card too far out of the way as explained earlier, and also make sure that the circuit card doesn't fall on the LCD surface while you are removing the backlight - it could permanently scratch your LCD surface.

The sticker that you removed from the circuit card in a previous step can be re-applied to the reverse side of the circuit so that you can now rest the circuit on the LCD panel without scratching it. 

Here is the completely stripped LCD module. It probably doesn't look like it is translucent, but if you carefully hold it up to a light you will notice that you can see through it. Next we will be fixing this to a piece of glass or other rigid frame for mounting into the pico projector. During the rest of this project, take great care not to scratch the LCD or get too much dust on it - the screen is extremely fragile at this point.

More photos and instructions are to come in the future, but this should be enough to get you going. 

© 2006 DIY For Life Inc