These instructions assume that you have an LCD panel that has been modified to the point where your have a translucent LCD with no circuit cards or other elements behind the image part of the LCD. If you do not have your LCD panel modified to this extent, please view our projection panel modification guide or post your questions on the forums.

For this part of the pico assembly process, you will need the two fresnel lens halves that you wish to use in your projector. The recommended fresnel lens is that 330mm focal length fresnel lens set available in DPC's online store. Install your fresnel lenses by putting them groove-to-groove (smooth sides facing out), then decide how you want to mount them to the LCD tray.

First, put your IR filter glass (included with the pico projector deluxe kit) on the LCD tray, then use RTV gasket seal maker as an adhesive to affix the two fresnel lenses to the top  of the IR glass, and to affix the entire sandwich onto the top side of the LCD tray. It is important that the groove side of each lens be touching the groove side of the other lens or you will not get a good image.

Note: if your LCD tray is only 8.5" wide, then it is okay for the fresnel lenses to overlap the edge of the LCD tray by up to 0.5" only on one side since the inside width of the pico enclosure is actually 9".

Next, to mount the LCD panel, you have a couple of options. The method that I use is to again use some RTV seal on the corners of the LCD frame (metal part only) and then press the LCD against the fresnel lenses once they've been mounted correctly. This method provides a semi-rigid mount that will also absorb some vibrations in the event that you bump your projector. Another option is to use some sort of metal mounting hardware around the edges of your LCD panel. This solution will be different for nearly every LCD panel used since they all have different mounting dimensions and different frame types. In general, the only rule that applies is to use firm, but not overly-tight pressure with your mounting rig since it is relatively easy to crack your LCD panel if you over-tighten. 

Mounting your circuit cards for the LCD panel is different for every model of LCD panel, so I won't go in to specifics. In most cases, the ribbon cables on your LCD panel will dictate how you must mount your LCD panel. Another thing to consider is that where the circuits are placed determines where you'll need to cut holes for your video inputs. If your circuits don't position nicely for video inputs, then you can also purchase RCA or Svideo or VGA input connectors to mount elsewhere and then run wires from that input connector to the circuit card. Below is a picture of what the pico looks like with a Sharp QA-1150 LCD panel installed. Notice that the circuit card doesn't mount in such a way that the video inputs would fit very nicely through the side of the projector. I remedied this by just cutting a hole in the back-upper part of the projector and running my Svideo cable directly to the circuit on the inside of the projector.

You will note that I am holding the mirror in this picture. To install your mirror, place your projector with the side on your work surface (laying down horizontally) with the top panel fastened. Then, with the LCD panel still installed, put your mirror into your projector at a 45 degree angle as I have done here. Use a short piece of dowel or some epoxy to secure the mirror at this angle. I recommend that you not use epoxy unless you are completely certain that your mirror angle is correct. If you use the dowel, it should be used on the top edge of the mirror, fastened into the top panel of the projector (not shown in the above image) so that it applies sufficient pressure against the mirror to hold it at this angle. You may also wish to use some rubber cement or other fastener at the bottom or sides of the mirror to avoid it moving as your move your projector in the future.

 

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