Now that we have all of the MDF cut for the basic enclosure, we now need to cut the holes for the triplet lens, cooling fans, LCD, and power cord. For this step, you should use some type of reciprocating saw if you have access to one, but a keyhole saw is a very inexpensive alternative (though it will take longer to cut). Recall that all of the DPC complete projector kits include pre-cut panels with all of the necessary holes drilled, making these steps unnecessary.

Triplet Lens Hole
Using your saw (or a hole-cutting bit in a drill press), make a 136.5mm hole in the front panel as shown in the diagram to the right. If you do not have a means of making a hole with this kind of accuracy, you can alternatively trace around the bottom of the lens onto your panel, then cut just inside of this line.

Fan Holes
The pico deluxe kit ships with 2 80mm PC case-style fans. You can use larger fans if you wish, but 80mm is sufficient. In your rear MDF panel, mark and cut two fan holes - an intake and an exhaust. You can put these nearly anywhere you like, but it is recommended that you center them along the longer center line of this panel and space them out such that the holes do not come within 1/2" of either of the side panels or the middle of the rear panel (where the LCD tray will attach).

Power Cord Hole
I use a 1/2" bit to bore the hole for my power cord. You should choose a hole that is slightly larger than the diameter of the power cord you are using. Whichever half of the rear panel you make this hole on will encapsulate the ballast/lamp section of the projector. The placement of your power cord hole is not very important, but it should be sufficiently far from the fan to allow for better cooling.

LCD Tray Opening
If you purchased your pico enclosure from DPC, then the LCD opening is already cut to approximately 7"x7". This is to allow for maximum compatibility for different sizes of LCD panel. You may choose to cut your LCD opening to the same size as your LCD image size. This prevents any more light/heat from entering the upper compartment of your projector than is necessary. 

Cut the hole for your LCD panel starting 1" away from the rear edge of the LCD tray (where the rear MDF panel will attach) and make it centered along the longest centerline of the LCD tray panel. This ensures that your LCD will have maximum cooling and more even light distribution over its surface. You will also want to cut a hole or two at the other end of the LCD tray to allow for better air circulation. I recommend cutting them to be approximately 80mm in diameter in case you later want to put another fan in the projector to help move air between compartments.

Enclosure Painting
I personally like to paint the inside of all of my projectors flat black. This keeps the amount of radiant light to a minimum and helps to keep the color of light as pure as possible. With high color temperature lights that produce a lot of blue spectrum light, the mixture of blue light with the yellow sides of the projector can sometimes give the image a greenish/yellow tint. If you wish to paint your projector, it is a good idea to paint it now before you start assembly. Only one side of each panel needs to be painted (whichever will be the inside) except for the LCD tray, which should be painted on both sides. If you don't already have black paint, request "lamp black" paint from your local paint shop or just use flat black spray paint. 

 

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